It's really a jungle out there
By Sharon Wong (New Sunday Times Dec 12th 1999)

Mohamad Razali is a conservationist but he's practical enough to realise that some compromises have to be made in order to survive. Sharon Wong walks the `trail' with him.

THEY call him bandit leader, jungle man, even elephant man. Mohamad Razali happily answers to them all. Hardly surprising, as the man has spent many happy years in the jungle. And elephants count among some of his best friends. There's a twinkle in the eye as he makes himself comfortable on the sofa and starts to talk about his favourite subject.
"In order to understand the jungle, you have to go there, camp under the canopy of foliage and listen to the orchestra of the night," he says, each word punctuated with feeling born from his love of the wild.

"Once you have experienced that, you will think twice before destroying nature and all that survives within it."
Although he concedes to logging and the clearing of rain forest in the country in the name of development, he feels that some permanent land must be preserved for the animals.
"I'm a conservationist, but I'm a practical one. Sometimes, there has to be compromise. At the end of the day, you still have to feed your family.
"Take the Kuala Selangor dam for example. People are up in arms over it but there can be advantages. When you flood an area (which in this case happens to be a secondary forest), a buffer zone has to be created - the surrounding rain forest - which would be protected.
"In time, the flooded area would have an abundance of fish. If the Orang Asli are given sole licence to fish, their livelihood would be taken care of.
"Recreational activities can also be carried out at the lake. At the end of it, the fireflies would probably migrate to another spot. They are not stupid.
" Where he is concerned, being a conservationist is not about protesting against logging or the destruction of forests: it's about doing something about it.
It's about identifying the needs of the animals and relocating them if need be. It's about enjoying nature without destroying and bringing awareness to people about what they could do to help.
This is where the Utan Bara Adventure Team (UBAT) comes in. Set up by Razali and friends (including ex-special force members and ex-hunters) Ubat is a small outfit that not only introduces the true conditions of the jungle to clients, but also teach them the art of survival. "Doing what you have to do, where you are, with what you have around you" is his definition of survival.
They pride themselves on being the only adventure outfit that allows dogs on jungle hikes and to truly off-the-beatn paths where there is absolutely no litter. And speaking of litter, Razali says with regret that the culprits are usually Malaysian themselves.
"The jungle is neutral and too big to be left unexplored. It invites you to trek, explore and camp. At the end of the day, you would surely want it to remain as it is so the next generation can experience its majesty. "
Razali and Ubat are willing to impart everything they know to their clients and the only thing that they ask in return is that they be willing to let their hair down, get dirty and give nature a try.
"Fitness is not so much required than a good sense of humour, a sense of acceptance and adaptability. Fit people are usually impatient but when you are in a jungle you have to take your time to enjoy, to listen, feel and smell.
"The fresh air and freedom of the jungle is a celebration of the human spirit." Razali adds sagely.
But be forewarned. Razali is known to be strict when in the jungle.
"I'm the boss," he grins, a wicked glint in his eye. "Whether you are a CEO of a company or a VIP, when you pay me to be a guide, you listen to what I say."
Thus, if you expect to take it easy, then you might as well stay home because he expects everyone in his group to carry his or her own weight.
"Even VIPs have to wash dishes," he grins. "If you want a leisure trip, don't join. We're looking for equal-tourism, not ego-tourism."
Nobody backs out in the middle of his treks either. According to Razali, there are only three reasons a client can leave before the trip is over: if he is injured; wants to go back by himself; or, if everybody agrees to go back together. Needless to say, no one has backed out yet.
"The first day is usually the worse because I like to test people's mental strength. After that, they start to enjoy themselves. Sometimes, they don't want to leave at the end of the trip!
"When things are explained and you put your foot down, they usually understand and respect you for it. But of course, you must set a good example."
For private bookings, UBATallows up to 20 people in a group and only about 10 for individuals with three guides for each group.
"The primary concern is safety. If you have only one guide, what happens if he falls sick or breaks his leg in the middle of nowhere?"
UBAT does not encourage participants to bring too much stuff along. All they need is a good sense of humour (and Razali cannot stress this enough), a positive attitude, minimum clothing ("Wear the same trekking outfit for the whole trip. So what if you smell? The more natural you smell, the more comfortable you are with nature."), a flashlight, sleeping mat, light blanket and lots of rubbish bags - not for garbage but to keep your stuff dry. Pen and paper are also encouraged for taking down notes.
"I do not give out notes. Those usually end up being thrown away. Instead, I love to see initiative, for it's those with initiative who survive." Besides enjoying the good outdoors, participants also learn what nature can provide for certain ills.
"We do not teach you what the scientific name for trees. Instead, we teach you what makes good natural insect repellent, what is good for rashes or what you can use to stop bleeding."
Razali's clients come from all walks of life, including bankers, accountants, biologists among others. Very often, once they have been on the trail with him, they end up becoming students, learning to be guides themselves.
The eighth of nine children, Razali had always loved the jungle and would often explore it alone - often getting lost in the process.
It is, therefore, lucky that his parents are the understanding kind but Razali does not believe in luck. It is initiative and hard work, he says, at giving them confidence that he can take care of himself.
"You have to g outside to grow up inside," he says.
This adventurous streak has served him well. In fact, he took off alone for Europe for three months at the end of 1996, to sell UBAT and the country, with only RM4,000 in his pocket.
"I survived a horrible winter and had to gate-crash events to make myself known. I was asked by the Malaysian Tourism Board in Paris to help at a trade fair when an operator backed out at the last minute. It was tough but I managed to attract people. I also had the opportunity to attend survival courses there to learn more. I learn all the time. Knowledge is, after all, free."
The man says that adventure is a romantic name for trouble but it's the kind of `trouble' that he thrives in. After all, adventure IS his middle name!

Elephant man
A LOVE for all animals prevents Mohamad Razali from killing anything on his jungle treks. Not even snakes or scorpions. These, when they are in the way, are gingerly removed.
When a close friend introduced him to the magnificent beasts in an elephant sanctuary in Pahang, he promptly fell in love.
"It was wonderful to have this up close and personal encounter with the elephants. After a while, you realise they can recognise you instantly and that they have a very powerful memory and are very intelligent.
"Their eyes explain everything. When it recognises you and realises you have something for it, the eyes roll around and ... it's so hard to explain. You just have to be there!" he throws his hands up in surrender.
"When an elephant has accepted you, it will start to act funny - pulling your hair, your sandals, etc. They want to play."
The sanctuary is under the Department of Wild Life and National Parks and allows visitors to hand-feed and even scrub them in the river.
"It offers a more personal experience unlike a zoo where you stand behind a fence and watch them do tricks. Why humiliate such majestic beasts?"
"People are beginning to know about the place and we are now looking for sponsors to donate audio visual equipment and computers for the office there. We are also looking for volunteers to help paint a mural of a rainforest on the walls."
In trying to create awareness for the sanctuary, Razali has also made quite a name for himself and this recognition has led him to be hired as an advisor by the National Geographic team when they were here recently to film a documentary on the capture and relocation of wild elephants in Pahang to Taman Negara. (The feature will be aired in Jan 2000) "

They were very lucky," Razali recalls. "We managed to capture and relocate four wild elephants despite the heat, the dangers involved (what with angry, charging elephants) and pressure from the plantation owners, etc. It took 13 hard days and the rangers (from the elephant sanctuary) were fantastic. In my opinion, they are truly unsung heroes."
With good response from his trekking outfit and the sanctuary gradually taking off, Razali would most like to set up a hostel next.
"It would be a place (perhaps the only of its kind in the world) where travellers can have a place to stay and be given the opportunity to provide voluntary services and learn about elephant training.
"That's my ultimate dream. That and to see the jungles in the backyard of Malaysia having friends in the form of true eco-tourists and not ego tourists!"

This is the real me!
(Interview of the BanditLeader)

IF you were not a conservationist, what would you be doing?
Probably travelling and taking pictures.

What's your greatest fear?
Dying alone in the jungle. My body would never be found.

What's your most annoying habit?
I like to look at people's eyes and sometimes I take a long time to blink. Some people find it annoying.

What do you dislike most about others?
When they don't pay attention when people are talking. Racism and snobbishness.

Self-control goes out the window when...
No idea. My sense of humour keeps me in control.

What objects do you always carry with you?
My pants and shirt - the ones I'm wearing.

Can you live without a handphone?
I don't believe in them.

What makes you most depressed?
Watching the TV news - nothing but wars and hunger!

When did you last cry and why?
About a month ago when I accidentally dropped minyak kapak in my eyes.

What single thing would most improve your life?
To build a hostel for travellers.

Would you donate an organ?
A lot of organs. They can take whatever's usable.

When did you last read a book?
Still reading it. It's called Face Like A Chicken's Backside by J.P. Cross. He was the last British commander of the jungle warfare school in Malaysia. I came across the book in UK and reading it gives me deja vu.

How do you relax?
Listening to music by Pink Floyd, Sarah McLaughlan, blues, Celtic music, even classical. I also like reading the newspapers, National Geographic, Reader's Digest and NST's Computimes.

Do you read your horoscope regularly?
No, but once in a while just for fun.

What's the last thing on your mind when you go to bed?
Wondering how many e-mails I've got.
 

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